How To: Stop Begging
If you have already read the previous post on begging, you will already know that this is not your dog being some monster. From the dog’s point of view you have a resource, and they would like to try and get it—usually by performing behaviors/skills that you have given them resources for doing before (like “sit”). Has someone in the household (or yourself) given your dog some food for sitting or any other behavior they are using to “beg?” If so, you have proven to your dog that this works, and dogs do what works.
Now, even though this is a completely normal behavior for our dogs to be doing, I understand that some of you have a hard time trying to eat when your dog is pawing at you, staring at you…or even putting their head on your lap and looking up at you with those puppy-dog eyes. Hard not to feel guilty when they are trying so dang hard, right? Well you can certainly help them learn exactly what you want them to do while you are eating. Each household can decide what they would ideally like their dog to be doing while food is out.
You then work on it wherever you may be eating that your dog has “begged” (asked) for the yummy resource before. So if it is always at the table, then practice it there, but if it is also on the couch with a snack or other places, then you must practice there as well. Make sure to generalize this behavior by practicing in every typical scenario in your household.
Although I will say that during those special occasions, like holidays, when there is food (and people) throughout the household it will be more fair for your dog to sequester them elsewhere. We don’t want to set them up to fail. That situation is akin to college level, and unless you have practiced to that level, you cannot expect them to be successful, especially while handling all the added stimulation. Now if you have these scenarios often in your house, then simply practice for them as well.
To start your session, have their meal, or some kibble/treats on the table with you (along with your food present as well of course) and start tossing them away from you. Before they have a chance to come back to you toss another one. After a little bit of this take a bite of your food in-between tosses. Anytime your dog stays away or hesitates to come back toward you you can toss another treat to capture them making the right choice in the moment. Simply add more time (eating) in-between each toss.
You can also reward sitting or laying down if it is offered, but the distance is the priority. I personally do not force a position, because I want my dog to be free to roam to other places in the house when I am eating, especially if I am munching and it may be a bit. I want them to be able to get a drink or ask to go to the bathroom if needed. I actually like when my dog does their own thing away from me while I am eating, isn’t that the dream scenario anyway?
Remember to keep sessions short and sweet and modify the plan as your dog shows success. Training sessions being capped at 5 minutes is a good idea, but even a session of 30 seconds is a lot of learning time for your dog! Ending your session would mean putting your food (snack) away. Honestly, I would just grab a handful of chips or cookies and whenever I was done with the session they would simply go back in the cupboard—that is, if there were any left of course!
GOOD LUCK & HAPPY TRAINING!!
For a more detailed plan and continuing support contact certified trainer Kera: ccps.semn@gmail.com or check out the services she offers: ccpsmn.com/services
